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Volcn_BarOn the day before Easter, several friends, a guide from Habla Ya, and I set out to climb Volcan Baru, in Boquete, Panama. The climb is approximately 14.5 kilometers, with a 6,000-foot elevation change, reaching the summit at 11,479 feet. It was a pleasant, sunny morning, and we set out at a steady pace; signs were random and infrequent, so it was hard to judge just how far we had gone or how far we had to go.

We wanted to be halfway before stopping for lunch, but we couldn’t find any signs to figure out where we were. We were tired and hungry and didn’t know how far we had come (later on, we discovered that we all were having the same thoughts at this time: “What did I get myself into, and will I be able to make it to the top?”). At this point the “road” (mostly loose gravel) was quite steep, and each time we turned around a bend, another steep section appeared.

Finally, we gave up on the marker and stopped for lunch. The food was key – a pretty basic sandwich on Bimbo bread (yes, that is the real name of the local bread), but we were hungry and tired and it tasted really good. A great little piece of chocolate to top it off, and we were on our way again. Just a few hundred feet past where we stopped for lunch, we found the marker we had been looking for, and to our great surprise, we discovered that we were actually 2/3 of the way up the mountain, and not 1/2 as we had thought. At that point, we all knew that we could finish the climb, and proceeded with enthusiasm.

An ATV passed us in the afternoon – this was Habla Ya’s ATV with our camping gear, sleeping bags, and dinner. How great is that? We only had to carry water and snacks in our backpacks, which hugely reduced the effort required to climb the mountain, and when we arrived at the campsite (1.5 km below the summit), all the gear and food was already there.

Except for a number of blisters, we all made it in good shape – 13 km in 6 1/2 hours. The weather was cool and clear at the camp grounds, but we were hot and sweaty, so it was perfect. We relaxed, helped to get our tents set up (though the Habla Ya team did most of the work), and munched on some snacks.

We then hiked the last 1.5 km to the summit. As we neared the summit, we arrived at “tower central,” an area consisting of a number of buildings and a plethora of cell and Internet towers.

Once past these towers, we had to climb the rocky area (about a 5–10 minute climb), which was challenging and required total concentration.

panamaBut our timing was perfect – the sun began to set just as we arrived at the summit. We were truly on top of the world, above a sea of white, puffy clouds.

The skies began to turn pink in the distance as the clouds danced around us. As the sun sank lower and lower, the colors became more and more vibrant, to the point where we were in total awe of the gift that Mother Nature bestowed upon us. The night sky replaced the vibrant colors, and we descended to the campgrounds for a well-earned dinner prepared by the Habla Ya team.

The food hit the spot and included a delicious fried rice with chicken, a Panamanean staple. After recounting our day’s adventures, we settled in for the night. At 11,000 feet, it was significantly cooler than the mid-80s I am used to, and I think it got down to the low 50s that night, but I’m not sure. I do know it got cold enough for me to shiver throughout the night, despite the claims on the sleeping bag that it would protect the user down to freezing point.

We arose early the next morning and, with difficulty, climbed the 1.5 km to the top again. We were definitely sore from the day before, and it was very noticeable in those first 15 minutes, until our bodies adjusted. We arrived up top just after sunrise, and it was clear on the Pacific side and mostly cloudy on the Atlantic side, though we were able to see land briefly.

We returned to the campgrounds, ate a hearty breakfast, and began our descent. We had heard that going down was more difficult than going up, and eventually I came to believe that, as did the rest of the group. The first 1/3 of the way down was pretty smooth, and we were still high from what we had experienced at the summit. The road consisted mostly of loose gravel, which was difficult to navigate, especially on the steeper portions of the road. Even with walking sticks (and for me, the arm of Victor, our guide), it was difficult to stay on 2 feet and most of us had an unexpected “sit down” at some point during the descent. It took nearly as long to get down as to go up, much to the surprise of all of us. We all had achy knees, along with many other aching body parts, but it was well worth every ache and pain. What an awesome experience!

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Gina Cronin is an avid traveler who operates one of the premier Green Globe certified eco-resorts in Central America, off-the-grid Rancho de Caldera, in Boquete, West Panama, near the border to Costa Rica.

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Rancho de Caldera is an extraordinary eco-resort located in the mountains of Chiriqui, Panama. An environmentally friendly boutique resort catering to those who want an extraordinary, healthy getaway, the 9 cabins of Rancho de Caldera boast such amenities as air conditioning, wireless Internet, iPod docking stations, satellite TV and small kitchenettes. The resort is a new, private, small solar powered eco-project pioneering sustainable and low carbon footprint hospitality in a remote tropical Rushing_Caldera_River_jquarnsenvironment. All 9 cabins of Rancho de Caldera have large, covered porches for bird and nature watching, as well as afternoon siestas.   Its facilities include an onsite restaurant, infinity edge pool and a conference room with audio/video equipment. The resort also offers wonderful views of the surrounding mountains, horseback riding to its guests and hiking trails. Rancho de Caldera has been certified by Green Globe and is one of the few eco-resort projects in the world that is totally off the grid year round.  For more information about the resort, travel tips and activities in the area, visit   www.ranchodecaldera.com.


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Panama officially the Republic of Panama is the southernmost country of Central America that is situated on the isthmus connecting North and South America.  Panama achieved its independence from Spain in 1821 and now has the fastest growing economy in Central America.  The republic is divided into nine provinces with ten cities, and nearly 500 rivers that can be found throughout the country’s rugged landscape. With a nearly year-round tropical climate that supports an abundance of plants, trees, grasslands and crops, nearly 40 percent of Panama is forest and vegetation.  The pristine white sand beaches, abundance of wildlife in its many national parks, and various shops and restaurants make Panama an idea vacation experience.  Many types of water and nature tours are available along the famous Panama Canal.  

Some historians have estimated that up to 50% of the population of Panama has some African ancestry.  Afro-Panamanians played a significant role in the creation of the republic and the building of the Panama Railroad in the 19th century. Many blacks in Panama are the descendants of African slaves and many are those whose ancestry arrived from the Caribbean islands. The descendants of the Africans who arrived during the colonial era are intermixed in the general population and live in small Afro-Panamanian communities along the Atlantic Coast and in villages within the Darién jungle. Some Afro-Panamanians are the descendants of later migrants from the Caribbean, mostly Jamaicans, who came to work on the canal, railroad construction projects and commercial and agricultural industries.  Afro-Caribbean community areas include towns and cities such as Colon, Cristobal and Balboa, in the former Canal Zone as well as in Panama City, the country’s capital.

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